Tarka Trail Adventures (and a bit of it's history)

The Tarka Trail really is great for all ages, whether you are a couple on a walking holiday, a family looking for something to do, a lone traveller wanting to admire the beauty of the area – or any combination of the above!

For us as a family, we particularly like the stretch from Braunton to Fremington Quay. I’ve skated, walked (with a buggy and without) and cycled it and for the most part, find the surface pretty smooth which is a big plus when you are a bit wobbly on roller skates….it’s also a great walk if you have a canine companion!

The Tarka Trail’s History

First up, some history of how the Tarka Trail came into being. In 1844, the first railway line was introduced to Devon. This was the line to Exeter and many local branch lines were soon added. These played an important part in connecting North Devon to the rest of the country and the development of local industries, such as the export of raw materials, shipbuilding and glove-making. Check out this fascinating picture below of how Barnstaple looked when the railway ran through it. You can find this photo and more out more about the history of Barnstaple here.

Unfortunately, post World War II a combination of decreasing customer numbers and Dr Beechings’ reports caused the loss of many of the smaller branch lines that linked the smaller localities within North Devon & Torridge. The ‘Beechings Report’ called ‘The Reshaping of British Railways’ recommended cutting hundreds of branch lines. As a result, funding was concentrated on fast lines between cities; with buses replacing the branch lines.

However, in 1987, there was a silver lining for these disused railway lines when Devon County Council created the ‘Tarka Trail’. This initially started with a section between Barnstaple and Bideford which they purchased for £515,000 from British Rail. They later added more after they purchased the section from Bideford to Meeth for only £1! Eventually, the result was a section of cycle/walking trail that stretched 180 miles through North Devon & Exmoor.

Who will enjoy the Tarka Trail?

The Tarka Trail really is great for all ages. Whether you are a couple on a walking holiday, a family looking for something to do, a lone traveller wanting to admire the beauty of the area – or any combination of the above!

For us as a family, we particularly like the stretch from Braunton to Fremington Quay. I’ve skated, walked (with a buggy and without) and cycled it. For the most part, find the surface pretty smooth which is a big plus when you are a bit wobbly on roller skates….it’s also a great walk if you have a canine companion!

Braunton to Chivenor

If you happen to be here in the autumn then this stretch provides blackberries aplenty! If not then the views still make up for it. Coming from Braunton it’s not long until you reach RMB Chivenor. From the Tarka Trail, you can see onto the base & can often see some of the military vehicles – sometimes you may even see a military plane flying around. Just 20 minutes or so down the trail until you get to the Waterside Coffee House. This is a definite must for refreshments; grab a coffee and a piece of cake & enjoy the stunning views of the Taw estuary.

Chivenor to Barnstaple

As you hop back on the Tarka Trail and head towards Barnstaple you see even more views of the estuary, particularly special during sunrise and sunset. There are several places to stop for something to eat or drink around Chivenor before you head on to Barnstaple. These include the Waterside Coffee House, as mentioned above. Then a little further down you can stop off at the Heanton Inn, accessible via their gate straight off the trail. Both of these stops are dog-friendly. Just past this, there is a further point to get off the Tarka Trail where you can cross the road and access St Johns Garden Centre at Ashford. If you opt for the latter, then please note that you have to cross the main road which isn’t all that easy with small children in tow. From then on, the next available stop isn’t until you get to Barnstaple.

Barnstaple is the main hub of North Devon & historically a very busy market town. There is lots to see and do, including exploring its rich history in the museum and via taking in the variety of architecture. In particular, we would recommend a visit to Butchers Row in the centre of town; this quaint row of shops dates back to 1855 where the 33 shops consisted of well…not surprisingly….butchers! These days there is a bit more diversity in the businesses that reside there. All of them are independent retailers who offer an array of produce; some of our particular favourites include Block and South West Cheese Shop.

Onwards to Fremington

Once you’ve had a break (and assuming you haven’t taken in too much of the produce on Butchers Row!), if you’ve still got enough energy left then do continue on to Fremington Quay. This destination is a particular favourite of ours as a family – you can drive and park here if you don’t fancy the Tarka Trail option. The Fremington Quay Café resides in the old train station, with the majority of the original building design remaining intact. In the café itself you can explore the history of the Tarka Trail with interactive displays & models on display. You can also go upstairs into the old signal box. Most importantly though the food is delicious – it’s not uncommon for there to be a queue especially at lunch time so do get there early.

Oh, and not forgetting the Pirate Ship play park for the kids!

This is just one section of the Tarka Trail and what it has to offer. Your journey could take you much further if you wanted it to in either direction. Make sure you check out the Tarka Trail website and plan an adventure while you’re here in North Devon.